Words: Kade Krichko
Photos: Ryan Nott
Over the last few years, journalist Heather Hansman has been a preeminent voice in some of the world's wildest places. Her work on rivers, mountains, conservation, and the people who tie them all together has appeared in The New York Times, The Atlantic, High Country News, and Outside among others chased her love of big, open spaces to Durango, Colorado three and a half years ago. She hasn't looked back since.
This small mountain town was once home to an expansive mining and railroad network, but today it's a jumping off point for desert, mountain, and river adventures. More than a mountain escape, Durango and its rugged, small town charm have become a fitting muse for Hansman and her work. We caught up with the author of Downriver and Powder Days at Outdoor Media Summit, ahead of the launch of her third book, Fierce Country, to get an inside look at some of her favorite Colorado haunts. This is Durango, through the lens.
Best Cup of Coffee
Ok this is where I think we shine. 81301 for the coffee (try to go on a day when Le Bonne Patisserie, the french bakery next door, is open). Bread in downtown for the scones. Still Life for the plants and vibes.
Favorite Cocktail Spot
Summertime: Anarchy Brewing after a ride in Horse Gulch, or the garden at The Peeples Bar (check to see if Maria's Bookstore is doing a reading there). Wintertime: The Oxford is cosy.
Favorite Quick Bite
Zia's is an easy go-to. It's quickie counter service burritos with local ingredients, and it's still pretty cheap. Go on Thursday when they have carnitas. The line might be long but it moves fast.
Best Sunset
Anywhere on the rim where you can see the sunset over the La Platas and look up the valley.
Favorite Spot for a Night Out
PRIMI is the best game in town. It's low key but the food, and the wine list, is really good. They close for a few weeks each year and take their staff to Italy, which I think says a lot about their food and their company culture.
Best Outdoor Activity
Durango is a bike town above all else. I am constantly getting dusted on the uphills by elementary schoolers who are probably going to be at Red Bull Rampage or the Tour de France sometime soon and the amount of trails we have in town is insane. For the best sampling I'd go to Horse Gulch, which has everything from mellow meadow flow to technical ridge riding.
Besides Outdoors, What is Durango Known For?
I might be biased, but I think it's a really good town for readers. There are a handful of local writers, the library punches above it's weight, we have an excellent book store, Maria's, and Ft. Lewis College brings in big names. Since I've lived here I've seen Robin Wall Kimmerer, Peter Heller, Terry Tempest Williams, Kevin Fedarko and more. That feels big for a small, hard-to-get-to town.
Favorite Tourist Trap
The Durango Hot Springs. Yes, they're expensive (although the bar is surprisingly cheap), and they can be crowded—always call and make a reservation—but I'm always glad I went. The hot/cold yin-yang pool is my favorite.
Favorite Durango Perk
Hard to chose, But we are so lucky to have the Animas River right in town. During spring runoff I love to do a quick after-work lap of the town river run. It feels really special to be able to get on the river without a lot of fuss or a long shuttle.
Favorite Place to Get Outside
We have four local ski hills, from the tiny (but steep!) town hill, Chapman, to Silverton Mountain. Purgatory Resort, which I'd call our local ski resort, is 25 minutes from town, and has something for everyone: cruisey groomers, great views, steep tree shots. Hit the Nugget, and then the hot springs, on the way home.
Why is Durango home?
Oh probably running into a friend at the river put in, floating with them, then ending up at Zia's. It feels like a place where community is easy to come by and you always run into people outside.
