Words and photos by: Jess Barnard
A quick look on paper and Jackson Hole Mountain Resort (JHMR) can feel a bit...umm...intense, right? Or is that just me, a 30-something adult learning to ski, who spends more time figuring out how to stop than actually skiing? When I think of JHMR, I immediately conjure up images of gravity-defying ski lines and Teton Gravity Research films that leave me with sweaty palms and a dropped jaw. I know I’m not alone in this – this mountain has a reputation for extreme big mountain sends and borderline insane cliff drops.
But, on a recent summer trip to the Teton Range, I discovered something unexpected: JHMR is more than just a mecca for adrenaline junkies. It’s evolving into a place that’s accessible and enjoyable for everyone, not just the adrenalined few. This isn’t just about earn your turns and gnarly double black diamonds anymore. There’s a real investment at JHMR in creating experiences that everyone—yes, even those of us who don’t spend our weekends hurling ourselves off cliffs—can enjoy.
Take the new Skywalk, which allows wheelchair users to access stunning views from 10,000 feet. The adaptive mountain bike trails? Same idea, with recumbents and handcycles available to rent and ride. Brand new educational signage at every lookout? That too. But my personal favorite? The Via Ferrata: the ultimate (yet still welcome to all experience levels) summer activity brought to JHMR by Connie Kemmere during her family's tenure as owners. Fun fact: it’s the first one to be built on U.S. National Park land!
So, what exactly is Via Ferrata? Yeah, I had to Google it too—and I’m a climber. When Eric Henderson (JHMR celebrity, former lead ski guide, and founder of Meteorite PR) asked if I was interested, I did a quick Google search and agreed, still pretty clueless, but intrigued.
Via Ferrata, or “iron way,” is a system of iron rungs, ladders, and cables embedded into the mountain to help climbers (of all levels) navigate the terrain. It dates back to World War I, when Italian soldiers built these routes to safely cross mountain passes. JHMR’s Via Ferrata boasts 15 routes, each offering truly exquisite views of the valley as you scramble your way up rocks, ladders, tight rope contraptions, and cables. Get harnessed up and soon you'll be a carabiner (with plenty of clipping and unclipping along the route).
The standout memory of this cable-supported adventure was hearing the phrase “Connie’s Crystals” more than a few times on the way up. I assumed it was some funny mountain rumor but no, there are actual rose quartz crystals embedded in the rock along the route. At one point, after fumbling with my carabiners, someone asked, “did you see the crystal?” I shot my eyes straight up only about 1 foot from my face, locked in on it and shouted, “OH MY GOD!” because how did I miss it and—“OMG”!
Our guide yelled from 20 feet above, “Did you see it!? Make sure to CHARGE UP!” I took a moment to rest my hand on the crystal, taking a few deep breaths, tapped it a couple more times for good measure, and thanked Connie—fully charged. I had recently given a small piece of rose quartz to someone going through a hard time, and now I was face to face with one 16 times the size protruding from the side of a mountain. The coincidence made me smile as I shouted up “this crystal is meant to emit self-love, healing, confidence, and calm!"
What really cemented the “JHMR is for everyone” feeling, though, was the sense of community. Every local or staff member I spoke with had a similar story: “I came for a seasonal gig... and I never left.” I get it. This place has an undeniable pull. Between the dog-friendly atmosphere (indoors and out!), on-site living arrangements, and access to daycare for families, JHMR has created a space where people wants to stay.
While we love a good adventure, Ori cannot go on a trip with out at least mentioning the FOOD. Jess understood the assignment and wrote up a quick and dirty guide to dining in and around Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Check out her picks below.
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Top of the World Waffles – Simple, sincere, and served on top of a friggin' mountain. There’s something special about imagining the crew riding the tram up with fresh batches of batter each very early morning. It makes the sweet that much sweeter.
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Spur Restaurant – Everything on the dinner menu is phenomenal. New Chef Anthony Bruno, hailing from Portland, Oregon (one of my favorite food cities), knocks it out of the park. The fried brussels sprouts, Skuna Bay salmon, and an off-menu truffle dessert were good enough to leave the table in contented silence.
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Teton Thai – I had heard the hype and now I know. Everything on the menu is a must-try. The charming owners (Samuel and Suchada Johnson) will make you feel like you have just walked into their home for a meal with friends.
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“Mutha Cluckin Sando” at The Handle Bar at the Four Seasons – 75% of my table ordered it, and 100% of us were thrilled with our choice. I especially enjoyed the second half of mine at 1:30am after a late night at the Mangy Moose—another Jackson staple.
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Osteria – The mussels triestina, watermelon salad, black garlic creste rigate, and, naturally, the Nutella cheesecake and pot de crème. Just wow.
I'm stoked to head back this winter and experience everything JHMR has to offer in its full snow-covered glory. You’ll find me with a ski instructor finally getting some lessons!